This is thankfully pretty straightforward:
- First step is on hatching to transfer to the new gecko to the nursery
container. The first type I use is a medium sized Exo Terra Faunarium.
- I place folded up kitchen rolls on the floor as a substrate. Add two
milk bottle tops - one with the calcium/food mix and the other with water. No food tray at this
point. A small exo terra hide and a moist hide I make from small sealable containers from ASDA
with damp sphagnum moss inside them.
- Transfer of the hatchling is fairly simple. I place the hatchling
incubation container in the Faunarium and encourage the hatchling to leave - this involves
hissing screeching and biting! LOL - they will leave eventually though.
TIP - if you have a particularly stubborn hatchling who won't climb out
use a spoon. Put a nice shiny spoon in front of their face - the site of their huge reflected
face pretty much spurs them into action. - Despite having a nice hide you will find they will
jam themselves behind anything suitable at the rear of the tank for a few days.
- The hatchlings will not eat for about a week. They
will go through their first shed first. This shed can also leave some problems with retained
skin. Use the advice in the health section on how to assist the gecko removing this skin if it
- After a week I add a Brandessa Conserve jam jar lid (
from ALDI which I have found to have deep enough sides to prevent mealworms escaping)
with the micro mealworms in it suitably dusted. After a few days you should start seeing faecal
matter in the tank - good sign - they are eating!!
- After 2-3 weeks start monitoring the size of the hatchlings - if one of
them looks smaller than the others - food bullying "might" be occurring or the hatchling
simply doesn't realise the mealworms are food. Try holding a wriggling worm in
front of the hatchling with a tweezers - very often they just need to be "taught" that these
things are actually food. If one of the hatchlings does seem not to be growing as fast as
the others, I have successfully kick started them with the smallest Waxworms I can find in
my food stock. they are so soft that the hatchlings will manage them fine - they are invariably
greedy then, having had some food they want more food whatever it may be; and
tend to take to the mealworms in short order. Do not provide Waxworms too frequently at this
stage only 1-3 MAXIMUM on just one occasion or you will inevitably doom
yourself to a waxie addict!
- At about 10-12 grams in weight their food becomes regular sized
- I keep a maximum of four hatchlings in this size Tank
until they reach about 12-16 grams in weight - at that size they go
2 to a tank. At this size their moist hide goes up to a larger sized ASDA
- When they reach about 30 grams (if I still have them or that
long) they go 3 to a tank in the Large sized faunariums. At
this size their moist hide is made from a cricket food tub to accommodate them.
- I clean, water and feed every 2 days or so.
It's that simple.
Oh - the heating is taken care of with a long narrow heat mat - commonly
called a snake mat at the rear of the small faunariums -on a shelf where they are
kept. This makes it nice and warm at the rear and cooler at the front - a good
As for handling and health - refer to the appropriate sections of the site
for more information.